Hops 2011

Hops, what are they? Hops are the bittering herb used in beer that imparts a bitter flavor to the beer. The history of hops is quite ancient, dating back to Babylon and Rome. It was the Romans who brought the hop to Britain as a vegetable. The earliest mention of hops in Europe is in the Hallertau district in 736 AD. However, it would be hundreds of years before Europe came to except the hop in beer.

What did they do before they had hops to add to beer? They would impart the beer with many different herbs, which were all being used for what the hop would replace, to add bittering flavor to the brew, balancing out the high alcohol and sweetness of the ales they brewed. They used herbs like coriander, yarrow, St. John's wort, rosemary and wormwood to add flavor to the beer.

However, due to the lower alcohol (lower than wines) the beer still spoiled quickly. Meaning, you brewed your own beer, and it was drunk very quickly. No time to ship it around the country, or start a large brewery, beer just wouldn't keep that long.

It was Germany who took to using the hops in the first place, and soon after the Dutch started importing the beer made with hops, and hops themselves to grow.

Why could they ship the beer from Germany? Because the hops are what make a beer keep. This was a new revolution to the world of brewing. You could get twice as much beer out of the same amount of malt, because you could make lower alcohol, impart hops, and it would keep even longer than traditional ales. This was when the herb growers who supplied the 'gruit' for the beer started getting upset. Because the introduction of hops would mean they would be out of business. No longer would people buy those herbs, that would not keep an ale, but would buy hops which will keep the beer for long periods of time. So, it was banned and put down in many countries because this.

Once Holland was won over to hops, England went next. They soon developed a taste for the hopped beer. In the 1400s they imported the hopped brew, and in 1428 they were growing hops. However, the controversy kept up througout the ages, and even as late as 1651 hopped beer was described in John Taylor's Ale Ale-vated into the Ale-titude as "A Dutch boorish liquor...a saucy intruder."

The advantages of the hopped beverage was so much better than unhopped that it triumped over the the traditional ales, brewed without hops.

However, the change to hops and hop growing did not come without cost. The hop was assailed by many pests and diseases, and you had to learn with it's whimsical nature. Some years the harvest would be good, and others bad. The cost would sometimes be 10 times higher in a bad year than the year before. Meaning you either made a fortune in a bad year, or a little in a good year. Neighbors often hoped for the others field to fail in order for the price to rise and make greater profit.

The hops move Westward, the Americas.

In 1629 the Massachusetts Bay Co. ordered seeds from England. In 1640s it was noted that hops grew "fair and large" in the colonies. Although Massachusetts in 1791 produced the first harvest, it was New York state that would take the country's leading and first producer. They were first planted in 1808. First harvest sold for 12 cents a pound. A series of English crop failures increase the demand that in 1822 trade routes were designated.

Gradually it moved to the West Coast, where California and Oregon gained production. In the early 1900s New York was still the leading producer. And in 1914 when the prohibition hit the production went down, and continued to decline, even after the prohibition in 1933.

The most recent development in hop history (1990) is the increasing availability of hops to to the homebrewer.

So there you have it. The history of hops. Did you know? Hops themselves are not bitter, it is only when added to the boiling wort (beer before fermenting) that it brings out the oils that impart the bitterness. Hops are added to beer to add aroma and flavor, along with the bitterness which helps keep a beer so long.

So, why talk about hops? Well, for one thing, I brew, so I use them. For another, I grow them! I started growing hops last year, and I blogged about it. My hop grew 15-20 feet last year, pretty impressive, and I got a small harvest. This year, with added SEA-CROP and compost tea my hop is doing even better! It is 6ft long already! It is growing more than 4 inches a day! I am looking forward to a vine that will be more than 40ft long! I hope to take some pictures of it in a week or two, but didn't have my camera with me today.


English Vintner

Here is the main source for where I took my history for hops. I looked at a few other websites as well. http://home.earthlink.net/~ggsurplus/hophistory.html

English Cafè, part 2

So, part two. I have decided on a roaster, Behmor 1600. After a year of that, and my customer base is big enough, I plan on upgrading to a gas fired 1 or 2lb roaster. The cost would be $2500 for 1lb roaster, or $3500 for a 2lb roaster.

I gave a sample of coffee to the Stone Table restaurant, haven't heard back on the results yet, whether or not they want to buy from me. I want to give some samples to my church, and see if they would consider buying from me. I have two other customers who want to buy from me on a regular basis, other than that, I don't have any more confirmed customers.

I got in sample bags for coffee last week, haven't decided on a bag yet. I will have reclosable valve bags for whole beans, and sealed bags for ground coffee.

Cost for the roaster is $300, grinder is $90, start up beans $100+, bags is $25, and some other expenses mixed in.

My grandparents have put aside money for each of their grand children in the bank, for college. I am not sure about college, and my grandma said that if I wanted to I could use some of that money to start up, instead of a loan. I am still thinking on the idea, but I like it.

I talked with my uncle who roasts coffee, and he said I need to look into this as a business that will grow to the extent that I cannot handle alone. I should be looking at this as growing quite large. That would be one reason to buy the larger roaster right now. However, until I get my customer base down I don't want to spend several thousand dollars on a machine that will take a few years to pay off.

If I sell an average of 5lbs a week, I profit in a year $1300, that means I make in a year roughly $2700. Not to bad. In one year I bring in enough money to buy the larger roaster. In two years if my customer base keeps growing and I am selling 10lbs a week, I am profiting $2600, bringing in $5200. This looks like a fun business to be in! It is fun looking at costs, and seeing how much I can make at this price, in a year. Quite fun to plan.

I will probably be receiving a check for $650 sometime in May, if I decide to go ahead with this. It will then be the end of June before I get things cracking.

I have my awesome cousin who is married drawing up some ideas for a logo. I'm looking forward to what she comes up with (she is an amazing artist!)!


I think I need to set up a website, so people have a place to order it, at least a place to look at prices and beans. I hope to get my dad help me with that. I know someone in my church who is a photographer, I'm considering asking her to take some pictures for the website of beans, mugs, etc. So many things to consider when starting a business! This is so much fun.

If you are interested in sampling my coffee, email me and I'll get you a sample (local only please, I can't afford to ship samples).


English Vintner

English Cafè

I am considering starting a coffee roasting business. I would prefer local people, who could stop by and order, or order ahead of time and stop by and pick up.

I would be offering a selection of 4 different coffees, sold by 13oz net weight. Organic, Decaf, and two Regular caffeinated coffees.

Cost would be $12.00 per package, if would like to buy larger or smaller quantities, let me know and I will give you the price. I sell whole beans, but will grind it if you don't have a grinder.

Ground coffee stays fresh for 2 hours before coffee snobs consider it starting to loose flavor. So, you really should be grinding the beans yourself minutes before brewing. Roasted coffee, should be used up in less than 2 weeks, preferably within 24-5 days of roasting.

I would like to host a coffee party for those interested in trying fresh roasted coffee, and want to know more about how roasting is done. I think the date May 19 might work. I'm gonna see who is interested in it. I would serve something to go with several different blends of coffee, have my roaster set up, roast some batches for people to see, and send them home with samples of beans to try.

Start up cost will be $650, I'm hoping to do a micro loan with my grandparents. I would like to have a minimum of 10 customers who are on a regular basis, along with others who like to get a pound once in a while, and others who buy from me as gifts to friends. I am hoping to have at least one restaurant who would be buying at least a 1lb a week, and maybe my church, who would use I'm guessing 2-3lbs a week. I am thinking if my customer base keeps growing, and I continue, I will have to upgrade my roaster to an actual commercial one.

Any ideas for names for my company? Right now I'm thinking of English Cafè for the name.

English Vintner

Asparagus

Who doesn't like asparagus? It is a wonderful vegetable and high in nutrition. It comes in 'season' only from the beginning of spring up until the beginning of summer. Usually the window is 6-8 weeks long for mature asparagus.

You can buy 2-3 year old crowns. Plant the crowns in Spring when the soil is warm, let it grow. The following year cut asparagus for 2-3 weeks. Some people don't do this, but a study showed that this increased next years asparagus season. So, the year after you plant the crowns cut for a couple weeks, then let the plants grow the rest for themselves. The following year, two years after you planted them you can cut for 4-6 weeks. The following year and every year after for 10-15 years cut for 6-8 weeks, usually until the first week of June.

This is my second year, I planted asparagus last year this time. It grew well. I was not going to cut any this year, due to some shoots coming up several weeks ahead of others, but after doing some more reading on it, decided to cut some. So, this morning I got 11 shoots. I will be cutting for the next week or so, to improve next years yield.

I am thinking the reason cutting the second year can improve the third year is that you are forcing the plant to put out more shoots, expanding the root system, my idea anyway.

Here are pictures of my asparagus that I cut this morning. Once picked put into ice water to remove any heat. Then place in plastic bag and refrigerate, should keep for 2 weeks, enough for you to continue cutting until you have enough for a meal.





English Vintner

GMO and ORGANIC

The problem with GMO seed is that it cannot exist along side organic seed. Monsanto likes to trick people into believing it can be so, but don't be fooled (this is no April Fools).

GMO seed is pollinating organic varieties thus eventually making everything GMO, which makes Monsanto have a monopoly! Is something wrong here? Hello! Everybody knows that a monopoly makes for a poor quality, you can do whatever you want and everyone has to do what you want them to do.

I don't know how we are going to get out of this one, really, I don't know.

Read this article, good info on it, http://www.huffingtonpost.com/alison-rose-levy/monsanto-lawsuit_b_842336.html


English Vintner

Cover Crops

I think I will bring up this subject again, as I am fond of the subject and think more gardeners should use it.

What is a cover crop? A cover crop is a crop that is planted simply for the purpose of the soil. Wether you cut it and compost it aside from the soil, or you till it under is up to you.

When do I plant cover crops? It depends on the cover crop. Typically cover crops are grown over winter, usually a vetch and rye, as they can withstand cold temperatures. The reason for doing it over the winter is because the winter months are when you don't have much else planted, so you are not taking away space from your garden. The other reason being that during the winter months erosion tends to happen because nothing else is growing to hold down the soil. So, a cover crop holds down the soil, takes up nutrients, fixed nitrogen (if a legume) and adds organic matter.


However, some good cover crops can only be grown in the summer, when it is warm. Those include certain varieties of vetch (Chikling vetch fixes nitrogen in 45 days!), soy beans (good nitrogen fixing crop, and lots of organic matter), alfalfa, and certain kinds grains and smother crops.

When or why should I grow cover crops? I think the best way to start out is to grow a mix of vetch and rye over all of your garden over the winter. In the spring time till it under. I recommend also that you set aside part of your garden each year (you decide, wether it be half, a quarter, all of it every 4 years?, etc.) during the spring and summer to grow a summer cover crop. Growing cover crops every winter and every summer will result in a build up of good soil much faster than if you don't sow cover crops. Growing rye has shown that weeds are less likely to grow in that soil. Also, growing something like mustard and other cover crops is a great way to smother out weeds for a season before planting. Resulting in less weeding, and less herbicide (if that is really necessary).


How much do cover crops cost? Typically grains are the cheapest, and if you buy it by the 5lbs the cost drops quite a bit. Some vetch and other legumes are a bit more costly, though, worth it in the long run.

So, what does it take to get started? Most big seed companies will sell cover crops ranging from sunflowers, to mustard, with grains and legumes in between. A cover crop will keep weeds from growing in your soil, can add nitrogen and organic matter and improve your soil greatly!

Johnnys Seeds is where I've ordered cover crops in the past, they have pretty good prices, and the quality is good. http://www.johnnyseeds.com/c-4-cover-cropsfarm-seeds.aspx



English Vintner

GMO seeds again

Here is a link to another blog, which is VERY helpful in reinstating why GM is harmful. If you would like me to post the contents here, just let me know.

http://berlinnaturalbakery.com/blog/index.php/2010/03/26/scientific-evidence-documenting-the-negative-impacts-of-genetically-modified-gm-foods-on-human-and-animal-health-and-the-environment/

English Vintner

Mulch

I cannot say enough how mulching your garden will save you from watering. I grew a patch of romaine lettuce heads last year, they grew from Feb-April or so. I watered them at the beginning, and a few times in between. For the rest of the 3 months they had several inches of oak leaves as a mulch which kept me from having to use more than several gallons on them a few times.

Mulching also keeps the soil from direct rainfall which compacts the soil on top, forming a crust.

Mulch keeps down weeds. Most weed seeds need light to germinate. Having a thick 3-4 inch mulch around plants will prevent most weeds, eliminating the chore of weeding.

Mulch is especially helpful to small trees and shrubs that benefit from not having to fight weeds for nourishment and water.

What to use for mulch? My personal favorite is hay, followed by straw and oak leaves. Keep the black plastic mulch for melons and such that can use the extra warmth during the growing season.

A plus to organic mulches is that you are adding organic matter to the soil. You almost eliminate the need for a tiller, especially if you have deep or raised beds. The mulch keeps the soil loose and crumbly. When you need to plant, pull it back and seed.

Consider mulching as a major time saver in the garden.


English Vintner

SEA-CROP

Benefits of SEA-CROP

Our field testing (Ambrosia, SEA-CROP) has demonstrated that SEA-CROP:

1. Increases cellular respiration
2. Makes plants more phototropic.
3. Increases photosynthesis.
4. Increases carbohydrate content of sap by Brix refractometer testing.
5. Increases soil microflora
6. Nitrogen fixing and other bacteria.
7. Phosphorous leaching and other fungi.
8. Improves soil tilth and aeration.
9. Makes plants healthier, more disease and insect resistant.
10. Has saved diseased orchards.
11. Has lessened the need for insecticide.
12. Makes plants more drought tolerant.
13. Makes plants more transplant tolerant.
14. Fruit become larger and much better tasting.
15. Keeping quality is enhanced.
16. Mineral and vitamin content is increased.
17. The growing cycle is shortened by weeks.
18 Crop yields are increased 15% to 35%
19. Application is easy and inexpensive.
20. Product is organic.
21 Nontoxic.


What is SEA-CROP?

SEA-CROP is a natural source balanced formula from ocean water that has all the natural elements known to man. It develops healthy and energetic plants.


Is this product safe to use?

SEA-CROP is a natural liquid that is as safe to use as water.


Can SEA-CROP be used for all plants?

Yes, SEA-CROP's formula is the same for all plants but application rates vary. Please follow recommended rates closely.


Will I damage my plants if I apply too much SEA-CROP?

It would take an application error in excess of 100 % to experience a detrimental affect to your plants.


Is SEA-CROP a fertilizer?

No, SEA-CROP is not a fertilizer but does have a lot of the nutritive elements that are in many commercial fertilizers. SEA-CROP is a natural liquid soil amendment that works in all plant applications. It is the active organic substances it contains working together with all those trace elements that make it so effective.


Do I need to apply SEA-CROP often?

No, one application per year for soil applications is all that is needed for annual plants although a split application or multiple applications may give enhanced results for some crops. Also, some plants when stressed can benefit from an additional application. Alfalfa after cutting is a good example.
Foliar use requires multiple applications for maximum results.


Does SEA-CROP stimulate the plant to produce more growth?

SEA-CROP stimulates the soil environment so the plant will grow healthier and reach its genetic potential, not just provide extra growth.


Would SEA-CROP still improve yield if I use leading biological products?

Yes! The microbes in the soil are reduced by tillage and pesticide applications. Biological products are useful and are applied to increase micro-organism populations that work to provide a healthier soil environment in which the plant can grow. SEA-CROP can increase the effect of biological products by stimulating the growth of soil organisms. Remember, SEA-CROP acts as a catalytic trigger in the soil environment by stimulating the growth of soil organisms needed for the plant to be healthy and maximize its fruit or seed bearing potential.


Is SEA-CROP approved for use in organic farming?

Yes, SEA-CROP has been approved by the Washington State Department of Agriculture as being in compliance with the United States Department of Agriculture's National Organic Program and is approved for use in certified organic operations. SEA-CROP has also been approved by Oregon Tilth for use in certified organic farming.


Is SEA-CROP affordable and can I buy SEA-CROP in a variety of quantities?

Yes, SEA-CROP is affordable. House plants cost just pennies to treat once a year. Farm crop application costs are much less than any pesticide or herbicide application cost to the farmer and SEA-CROP helps the crop withstand the stress of these applications. SEA-CROP markets the product in several sizes from small containers for the homeowner/gardener to bulk deliveries for the large corporate farms.


Can Sea-Crop be used for animals?

Yes, SEA-CROP has been approved as meeting the FDA requirements for use as a mineral supplement in animal nutrition. The recommended rate is .04 milliliters per kilogram of body weight per day added to the drinking water.

Directions For Use

Application of diluted Sea-Crop to moist soil followed by irrigation gives the best results. The product should not be applied to dry soil unless heavily diluted.

Dilution: Always dilute Sea-Crop with water prior to use. Use at a concentration at or less than 2% strength. One gallon of Sea-Crop added to 49 gallons of water equals a 2% solution. Five tablespoons (two and a half ounces) per gallon equals a 2% solution.


Annuals: For optimum results Sea-Crop may be applied directly to the soil at planting or early in the life cycle of annual plants.


Perennials: For well established perennial crops, apply just before or during the active growth period. An application just before entering dormancy may also be beneficial.


Foliar Spray: Sea-Crop diluted to a 1% solution can be used as a foliar spray. A minimum of 3 applications per season applied at 1 to 3 week intervals are recommended. Customers have reported that ½% solution of Sea-Crop works well to suppress both powdery and downy mildews.


Garden Produce: Apply 2 to 4 gallons of SEA-CROP concentrate per acre.


Field and Row Crops: Apply 2 to 4 gallons of SEA-CROP concentrate per acre.


Trees and Orchards:

Medium size trees (size 3-6 feet): use 4 oz SEA-CROP per tree not to exceed 10 gallons per acre.

Large trees (size 6-12 feet): use 6 oz SEA-CROP per tree not to exceed 10 gallons per acre.

Potted Plants: Use a 1/2% solution for soil applications and 1% solution for foliar applications.


Root Dip:

Transplants: Briefly immerse the transplant in a ½% solution of Sea-Crop.

Bare Root Plants: Briefly immerse the exposed roots in a 1% solution of Sea-Crop.

The yields given when plants are treated with SEA-CROP is 10-20% more. That does not include the added mass of the plant tissue when treated with SEA-CROP. For more information on SEA-CROP, testimonials, and trials go here: http://www.sea-crop.com/index.html






To buy it, visit this web address: http://www.sea-crop.com/order.html

I bought some last year, used it in a few trials, I'm looking forward to this year with it. I bought a gallon and have been giving it away to gardening friends as gifts.

English Vintner

Your Will

This blog, as many of you know, is a collection of thoughts, gardening adventures, and much more. This next post is a poem I was inspired to write in the middle of doing Chemistry, while watching the sun's rays hitting the clouds, making a beautiful sunrise (pictured below, though, pictures never do do justice).

Your Will

Thank you for this day you’ve made
Often though I’ve been afraid.
Another day, another night
You have helped me win the fight.

Through the rising of the sun,
Through me let your work be done.
Set me close upon your breast
So Lord, let me always rest.

Set me where you’ll have me be
Wether bound, or wether free.
So I ask you from my heart,
Lord, I pray, please ne’er depart.



English Vintner